1. Hp Laserjet 1320 Troubleshooting Manual
2. Hp Laserjet 1320 Service Manual

Introduction

1. HP Laserjet,Color Laserjet 1320 Manuals & User Guides. User Manuals, Guides and Specifications for your HP Laserjet,Color Laserjet 1320 Printer. Database contains 1 HP Laserjet,Color Laserjet 1320 Manuals (available for free online viewing or downloading in PDF): Supplementary manual.
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Installing 1320 on a single computer is straightforward. The printer also includes the choice to create and set up a custom-installation utility throughout the network. The service can place the drivers on an office intranet so that consumers can hook up themselves to the printer. HP LaserJet 1320n Manual Drivers & Software Download for Windows.

This teardown is not a repair guide. To repair your HP LaserJet 1160 or 1320, use our service manual.

• This teardown of the HP LaserJet 1320 is officially the first laser printer teardown on iFixit.

• It took almost 7 hours to take apart this amazingly complex printer.

• Spoiler alert: It's really nice to see something this repairable.

• Also, check out the complete repair guide for this printer!

• According to the service manual (there is a link in the documents section), the left cover of the printer can be opened without any tools by pulling on 2 tabs.

• The service manual was right. For the record, this is actually easier than it sounds.

• Now on to the formatter.

• Remove 2 screws on the I/O port cover.

• Remove 6 screws on the formatter cover.

• Disconnect 3 connectors to the laser assembly, the cartridge connector, and the control panel.

• Disconnect 2 flat flexible cables to the laser assembly and the control board.

• While the service manual says not to use a PoziDriv screwdriver, I found that using a normal Phillips screwdriver on the screws in this printer would require excess force and damage the screws, but a PoziDriv screwdriver removed the screws without causing any damage.

• Chips on the formatter:

• PCA9551 I2C LED Blinker. I never knew there was a chip with the sole purpose of blinking LEDs.

• STMicroelectronics E6V2HP

• SC414445VF Proprietary ASIC

• More chips on the formatter...

• The large gray object on the right is a 100-pin DIMM slot for expanding the internal memory.

• Removing the right cover is as easy as disengaging 3 tabs with the printer turned on its side.

• The back cover can be removed by removing 4 screws on the back of the printer.

• The duplexer tray can be removed by pulling outwards on the bluegreen blue-green tab, which releases the magnets that hold the tray in place.

• Remove 2 screws on the back of the printer, one on the left side, and one on the front.

• After disconnecting the control panel cable, the top cover can be removed.

• The control panel and its circuit board can easily be removed with a metal spudger.

• Remove one cable from the laser assembly.

• Remove 4 screws from the laser assembly.

• After removing the cover and the clips holding in the lenses, the inside of the laser assembly can be seen.

• The chip on the motor board is an AN44010A, most likely some sort of brushless motor driver, although no datasheet could be found.

• The board mounted on the side of the laser assembly contains the infrared laser diode and a photodiode to sense the beam direction. It has a chip marked as RH4-5444, for which no datasheet could be found.

• Disconnect the fan cable from the control board on the back of the printer.

• Remove the retaining clip from the fan.

• Remove 2 screws holding in the fan.

• While the fan can not be completely removed yet, this will make it easier to take apart other parts of the printer.

• Remove 1 screw from the top of the cartridge connector.

• Remove 1 screw on the front of the cartridge connector.

• The cartridge connector can be removed from the printer.

• The cable clip for the laser assembly cable can be removed from the chassis.

• Disconnect the duplexer cable from the control board.

• Disconnect the duplexer solenoid cable from the duplexer PCB.

• Remove one screw from the PCB and remove the PCB from the printer.

• This tiny board contains 2 NPN transistors marked C2120 and C1815, which are used to drive the duplexer solenoid.

• Remove 3 screws on the duplexer gear assembly.

• The duplexer gearbox can now be removed.

• Remove one screw holding down the duplexer solenoid.

• This appears to be a standard 24V open-frame solenoid, although no markings were found on it.

• Remove 3 screws to remove the safety interlock assembly.

• Disconnect 2 spade connectors from the microswitch.

• The safety interlock prevents the lasers or high-voltage power supply from being turned on when the cartridge door is open.

• The fan cable can now be derouted from the cable guide and the fan can be removed.

• The fan is a standard 24V brushless fan with a speed sensor manufactured by Nidec.

• Disconnect 2 cables from the control board.

• Remove the gear from the fuser shaft.

• Deroute the remaining cables in the cable guide.

• Remove 4 screws to remove the main gear assembly.

• Remove 1 screw to remove the third solenoid.

• The cartridge door can be removed by removing 2 screws on the front of the printer.

• The pickup roller can now be removed by rotating the white tabs upwards and pulling them out.

• Remove 2 screws to remove the paper feed bar.

• Remove 2 (hidden) screws to remove the registration assembly.

• Remove one gear on the output shaft of the fuser.

• Disconnect the cable to the tray connector and route it through the hole in the chassis.

• You are now halfway through the teardown.

• Disconnect 2 cables from the control board and remove them from the cable guide.

• Remove the cable guide from the chassis.

• Remove the cable guide on the other side of the chassis.

• Disconnect 2 connectors from the control board.

• Disconnect the high voltage wire from the fuser.

• Deroute the tray connector cable through the cable guide.

• Disconnect the main motor cable.

• Remove 3 screws from the right side of the printer.

• Remove 3 screws from the left side of the printer.

• The fuser can now be removed from the printer.

• Remove one screw on the front of the fuser.

• Remove one screw on the top of the fuser.

• The paper output assembly can now be removed.

• Remove one spring and one screw from each side of the fuser.

• Remove the large springs at each side of the fuser by pushing in on the plastic inserts.

• The springs will fly out violently if you do not hold them with pliers.

• Remove one screw on the fuser.

• Remove the metal piece held down by the spring on each side of the fuser.

• The fuser roller can be removed from the printer.

• The white wires on the left connect to a temperature sensor.

• The large connector on the right connects to the heating element and a thermal fuse.

• Disconnect the snap-on connector from the right side of the fuser roller.

• The heating element can be removed from its channel in the roller.

• The heating element is a 576-watt thick film ceramic heater.

• Remove the plastic clip from both sides of the roller.

• The fusing film can be slid off of the roller without the clips in the way.

• After removing the metal cover, the temperature sensor (red) and the thermal fuse (orange) can be removed.

• The wires on both of these components have very thick silicone insulation to protect from heat.

• After removing the plastic clip, the soft foam pressure roller can be removed.

• The metal rod in the roller allows the roller to be negatively charged, which prevents toner from sticking to the fusing film. Each end of the rod is coated in a conductive black liquid which helps it make contact with the high-voltage connector.

• Remove 2 screws to remove the metal bar from the fuser.

• After removing one screw, this small circuit board can be removed.

• The board contains a beam interrupt sensor, which contains an infrared LED pointing at an infrared phototransistor. When an object enters the slot and breaks the beam, the phototransistor detects it as a drop in infrared light.

• Remove 4 screws on each side of the printer to remove the metal midframe piece that holds the chassis together.

• The massive control board can now be seen.

• Remove the metal feed plate from the paper feed mechanism.

• Remove the tray connector and motor cables from the cable guide.

• The high voltage corona wire used to apply a charge to the paper is visible in the right of these pictures (the spiked metal strip attached to the paper feed assembly)

• Remove one screw holding down the tray connector cable guide and then remove the cable guide.

• Remove one screw on the printer chassis.

• Remove 2 screws from the left side of the chassis.

• Push the safety interlock and formatter cables through the hole in the chassis.

• Bend the chassis to allow the control board to come loose, and disconnect the 2 cables to the paper feed assembly to remove the control board.

• Remove 4 screws on the control board to remove it from the metal plate.

• Here are the major components on the top side of the control board:

• CR8KM-12A Thyristor (Most likely for fuser control)

• Unidentified high-voltage transformers

• 220uF 200V capacitor

• Main switching transformer

• Chips on the back of the board:

• STMicroelectronics 324 E9SU518 - Possibly an LM324 Quad Op Amp?

• STMicroelectronics 339 E9W2513 - Possibly an LM339 Quad Comparator?

• Unidentified Texas Instruments chip with the part number sanded off.

• Large QFP chip with the part number sanded off and a red and a blue mark on top.

• Interestingly, all the chips were covered in a clear coating that made it hard to read the part numbers.

• It appears that whoever designed this board was trying to prevent reverse engineering by making it hard to read the part numbers on the chips.

• The main motor can be removed after unclipping the cable guide and removing 3 screws.

• The motor is a Nidec RK2-0419, which appears to be appears to be a fairly powerful 'outrunner' style brushless motor rated for 1.3A at 24V. The rotor (the round metal part) is about 3 inches in diameter and the entire motor weighs about 15 ounces.

• This motor might be a special motor designed for use in this printer, as it and many other components have a number with the format RK2-0xxx on them.

• The single chip on the motor is a BD6761FS Brushless Motor Driver.

• At this point, all that is left of the printer is the metal chassis and the paper feed assembly, a large chunk of plastic containing 2 more beam interrupt sensors.

• This printer receives a perfect repairability score of 10/10.

• No adhesives, thermoplastic staking, spot welding, or rivets are used.

• Service manuals for this and most HP printers are easy to find and free.

• Replacement parts are easy to find.

• Printer is designed to be repaired.

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